Shoes
Dark brown oxford lace Lysander boot by Grenson.
Leather or rubber soles present themselves as the primary options, depending largely on the climate of the wearer. Leather should be the first choice, it is porous to sweat and it molds to the shape of the foot and thus new shoes can be worn-in to be comfortable. In general, only Goodyear welted shoes should present themselves for your consideration.
It is a misconception that heels are disadvantageous for shoes. The rarely spoken truth is admittedly a minor one, but explained is simply understood. A raised heel increases the longevity of the shoe and the protection of the foot. The first point results in less surface area of the sole over the walking surface. This is achieved by the separation of the heel and the rest of the front section of the sole by a height differential whereby the middle of the sole makes no contact with the surface whatsoever and is suspended. Overlying is the arch of the foot and naturally requires support when it comes to the wearing of any solid shoe. With modern living standards and working conditions it is necessary for a solid or fairly robust shoe. The raised mid-section also directs wear to the front and rear sections of the sole, whereby the height of the heel is its own provider of longevity as it wears down over time and the front of the shoe, while much thinner and more vulnerable over time to wearing away, can have the addition of a steel plate or 'tap' which is simply screwed or tacked in. Protection of the foot is afforded through the thickness of the shoe heel as the heel of the foot is the first to strike the ground which may be uneven or muddy, where the latter reaching the upper parts of the shoe may wet the foot or cause rot at the upper stitching of the shoe.
The most casual shoe, yet the most regal, is the loafer. It requires no lacing. An Oxford 'closed' lace shoe is more formal than that of an 'open' derby. However, they are naturally working men's shoes as they don't fall off during manual labor. The loafer is therefore most appropriate for the modern office bound man. It is made slightly formal if black or in rich suede.
For leisure and sport the Converse 'Chuck Taylor All Star' high top shoe presents itself as the most commercially available option and has been popular since introduced in 1917. Yet, as any tribesman will tell you, you're best running barefoot.
Socks
A simple sock is cotton, wool or linen depending on personal choice and clime. Silk socks may be chosen for more decadent individuals. Wool provides necessary warmth and damp prevention in inclement climes, while providing cushioning in work boots. Cotton, although not a particularly tasteful fiber is the most durable and cost effective. It is the smelliest option as it absorbs sweat like a towel. In praise of cotton, the market has the greatest variety of patterns, particularly for stripes. Linen, like wool is a solid as opposed to a hollow fiber and does not absorb sweat or odors as cotton does. It is the strongest and best option for warm climates in particular, yet it is not always cost effective as it is the most labor intensive and we know socks wear out quickly no matter what natural fiber. Silk may be enjoyed for formal wear as a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing option. It is impossible to find, but if I was to choose one pair of socks it would be in vertical striped alpaca wool. Socks must be long on all occasions to prevent indecent exposure of ankles / shins. Why? Because nobody wants to see your hairy legs and neither party wants to transfer fleas or tics hoping to hitch a ride, when sharing a seat with a stranger on the bus or train.
Lana Bambini (Italy) linen socks, also available in hemp.
Trousers
High-waisted with braces or mid-waist with belt. Braces present complications with timing involved removing trousers, therefore they are not recommend for use at home or on casual occasions. However, the benefits are provided in posture support and long term comfort as trouser weight is not pushed onto the hips with the constrictions of a belt but balanced on the shoulders so that the trousers 'float' below and are almost rarely felt at all! Belted trousers are efficient in high summer as you don't need to wear a waistcoat as you would need to do with braces, which as undergarments should be hidden (nobody wants to see your straps).
Trousers must be straight cut or lightly tapered, it is indecent for your self and others to have tight pants. Why? Because tight pants are bad for your circulation and loose pants means less surface contact with your legs, prolonging their lifespan and thus showing others just how sustainable you are.
Zipper flies are a decadent and dangerous feature. Mining activities for metal to make zips should never be a consideration of a practical person concerning trousers. These fail after a number of years, are not as easily fixed as sewing on buttons, nor readily recyclable.
Linens of varying weights for summer and wool are the tasteful options, with heavy wool for longevity in deep winter. However, the latter must be worn with linen or cotton long johns to reduce itchiness of heavier wools (durable heavy twill weave wool will not scratch) against legs for sensitive individuals. Cotton twill (eg. denim) and 8 wale corduroy is ideal for the most casual wear as it is the most durable form for use of work trousers.
Undergarments
A simple, undyed, linen underpants will last many years and is the only moral option. It is odor and moisture resistant, keeping your inner and outer lower parts cool and healthy. An exception is made for merino wool underpants for athletes in inclement climes.
A necessity in winter is a union suit or long-johns in combination with a long sleeve top. The greatest benefit of such undergarments is to the environment and society at large, as you will no longer feel the need for indoor heating. Union suits are particularly designed for heat conservation and are most toasty in wool. The greatest disadvantage is the forced heating of public buildings onto you when you are inside them and are naturally unable to take off your innermost undergarments. However, it is your duty to keep warm via your own regulation, not to be cold and expect the wasteful over-heating of buildings which is the single greatest everyday waste of electrical resources out of pure ignorance.
Drawstring underpants by Raw Linen Studio.
Daithí Mulcahy wearing a union-suit and Henley for a contrasting effect to his underlayers.
Shirt
A striped shirt seen in The Boating Party by Gustave Caillebotte.
In general it is good taste to wear striped shirts as these provide the most versatility. For formal wear shirts should be plain white as first choice. Linen shirts are recommended over cotton for all instances due to longevity and sustainability of the fiber but are limited in todays market. Cotton was a late addition (industrial revolution and colonial importation) and replacement of linen in the history of clothing and presents the most immoral and thus distasteful option, although most accessible for the greater population due to its mass production.
Shirts, especially being undergarments, should allow for full freedom of movement and comfort / breathability. This requires that they are wide and 'full' in the body and sleeves. This can result in them becoming unflattering to the figure in the sense they may appear oversized and billowing. This is not a problem, for the waistcoat or vest / jumper is it's companion and they must both be worn together unless you're keeping your jacket on in a social setting or on occasion in hot climes demanding less layers.
Detachable Collar
For social events a detachable collar frames the face as it is stiff / starched and therefore does not have creases. It is tidy and presentable. It also increases the longevity of a formal shirt as the collar always demands the most attention in laundering. Detachable collars also increase the versatility of an individual shirt as a diverse range of collar styles can be applied.
McDermott & McGough, 'Worn About the Neck' (1994).
Neckchief or Tie
Neckerchief: A universal rag of simple or decorative disposition (known by snobs as a "cravat") may be worn around the neck at all times to increase the longevity of shirts around the open collar, protect the neck and frame the face. It can be made tasteful by fastening it with a woggle closure or decadently with a signet ring.
Tie: The tie is a necessary facet, as the only alternative to the neckerchief, in contemporary menswear since the Victorian period. It closes the shirt and covers buttons to the front. It presents itself as the primary mode of individual self-expression, while tastefully keeping attention on the face of a person and complimentarily with a line of symmetry.
All fabrics are acceptable but silk is not particularly conducive to neckerchief use unless you are a Lord. Linen is most respectable. For ties, silk or very fine starched linen is the only option regarding formal wear. Casual ties are most fashionable in wool, with the greatest range of depth and pattern. Ties should not be felt or be of frivolous hinderance so they should be unlined and very fine so as if one is not wearing a tie at all.
Waistcoat
Recommended in linen for high summer and wool of varying weight during the rest of the year. A universal garment for keeping warm while allowing completely free range of movement for the arms and improved temperature regulation instead of jumpers (armpit breathability). Pocket space makes this an indispensable garment for the professional man who does not need to carry around one of those distasteful "wallets". Spare coins are best kept in a small leather purse. Ideal with buttoning flap pockets for casual wear.
A high buttoning closure is most respectable, flattering and comfortable, but hard to find in today's market. My biggest issue is the lack of a collar on waistcoats, having steadily been left out in tailoring since the regency era. Unless given the exception of very formal occasions or a compromise being met with either a thick and textured fabric or being that of a double breasted style, the waistcoat presents itself as an entirety boring, if not the most boring, garment in menswear. The waistcoat primarily serves to essentially function as an inner jacket but without the constrictions of sleeves and length. The collar should not be affected as it actually reduces it's wearability without a shirt (a collar with neckerchief or cravat with open shirt-collar that can be held from flopping around by the waistcoat collar itself) and outdoor conditions requiring the popping up of ones collar to prevent breeze or sunburn to the neck. Regardless, it is an aesthetically pleasing element that adds depth, as a waistcoat collar presents the face and neck, like a flower opening its bud.
Jacket & Overcoat
Jacket: A wool jacket, linen jacket or cotton jacket with length reaching at least to the end of the buttocks. Two cuff buttons are the aesthetic standard, anymore than three looks impractical and frivolous.
Despite continuing contemporary trends, it should not have upper shoulder padding as this is a feature that was first adopted outright as a fashion statement at the onset of the 1930s, with origins in reaction to women's suffrage (insecurity), the obsession of male image through Hollywood films and a reaction to the 'soft' shouldered men of the 20s that were responsible for the 1929 Wall Street Crash. It exudes modernism as it forces straight lines into the shape of the garment in reflection of art moderne / art deco principles of the time. It is the only impractical element of a jacket and a vulgar one which has contributed to the demise of the jacket generally.
It should have a respectably high buttoning in winter. The lining is a minor concern but it should not be boldly patterned or have a vulgar brocade.
Overcoat: A wool overcoat is completely necessary for winter. It should reach just below the knee, have newspaper pockets and no shoulder padding. Belts are stylish but a frivolous accessory that is often best lost. A second overcoat of the same features that is a complete necessity for any outdoorsman is a pure cotton raincoat. These are only made waterproof with tightly woven egyptian cotton. The manufacturers are Burberry, Aquascutum, Mackintosh and Grenfell. The most tasteful is Grenfell, as the former are now part of global brand conglomerates.
Scarve
The scarf is the romantic answer to your missing love story. Watch it flow in the breeze like the heraldic flag of a knight on the battle field as your future fair maiden appears from the castle tower above the Glen, waving, shouting, screaming to be rescued from their weighted shackles!
The Editor